DIY Honda CRX Gen 2 Ignition Switch Replacement


  • If you start the car and the radio doesn’t turn on, then wiggle the key and it turns on.
  • Most often, the dash will go dark when the car stalls (no warning lights, no shift indicator, no electrical, except the horns.)
  • The speedometer and tachometer drop momentarily and come back up.
  • Car runs fine when key slightly held at start position.
  • Car stalls then can be restart, then stalls after driving or idling.
  • Once started the the car starts for a second and dies after letting off the key.
  • In some cases, the ignition key is warmer than normal and the electrical switch is hot.
  • On rare cases, all of the gauges go dark when in the ON position but if held between the on and start position they light up.
  • On rare cases, if held between the on and start position the system check bulbs light up on the instrument panel.
  • On severe cases, when the key turns to ON the usual clicks under the dash is not heard as well as the check system light but the horns work okay.
  • In severe cases when the key turns to START nothing happens (no electrical) but the horns or brake lights work okay.


  1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal (for your safety.)
  2. Remove fuse cover.
  3. Remove the steering column cover cover. (three screws under the steering wheel)
  4. Lower steering wheel if possible and if required.
  5. Make sure the ignition key is turn to “0”
  6. Disconnect the electrical switch harness from the fuse box.
  7. Remove the two screws from the side of the ignition switch cover with a wrench, monkey wrench or socket wrench. This is done by loosen the two small bolts/screws holding the electrical switch. Once they are loosen, you may then continue to loosen them with your fingers or tools. In my photos I used a screwdriver bit, having no other suitable tool available.
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  8. Remove the old electrical switch, taking note where the harness routes.20120319-094551.jpg
  9. Simply insert your new ignition switch, screw it in, and reinsert the sockets!


If you open your damaged ignition switch you should see pitting one of the contacts located on the black component of the ignition switch; this should not be restored. It should be discarded.

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With thanks to TechAuto, information used from here.

Sapphire Fossicking in Glen Innes


Top: Final Destination – The furthest point north in the trip. Bottom Left: Glen Innes, the celtic country town. Bottom Right: Me, fossicking for sapphires in the local river.


A countryside shot along the New England Highway near Parkville.


Angry Clouds – As we approached Glen Innes, the chance of rain seemed high.


Long Road Ahead – Travelling along this road with my car was torture; the rocks are large and unforgiving.


Dusty: We arrive at our destination dusty, but not battered.


Top Left: Looking Upstream from a rocky pass, Top Right: Looking Upstream from the nearby campgrounds, Bottom Left: The Australian Bush, Bottom Right: A disused river dock


Top Left: The gear; Top Right: Clearing the “Wash” of dirt, Bottom Left: Sifting through the pebbles for a hint of blue; Bottom Right: Looking upstream from the fossicking area.

Custom Mod: Air Intake Cover

While I should have taken a few more photos during the making of it, I forgot. Meh! 🙂

You’ll need:
A sheet of aluminum.
Spray Paint.

Use the cardboard to draft cut and fit where the sheets will go.

Trace the cardboard cut-out onto your sheet of aluminum; allow some space on either sheet at the edge where they meet.

Fold the extra space a 90 degree angle.

Align the two sheets and drill holes for the screws & fender bolts

Test fit them.

This is my test fitment:


Spray the sheets.

My sheets painted:


Fit them.

And voila!