- If you start the car and the radio doesn’t turn on, then wiggle the key and it turns on.
- Most often, the dash will go dark when the car stalls (no warning lights, no shift indicator, no electrical, except the horns.)
- The speedometer and tachometer drop momentarily and come back up.
- Car runs fine when key slightly held at start position.
- Car stalls then can be restart, then stalls after driving or idling.
- Once started the the car starts for a second and dies after letting off the key.
- In some cases, the ignition key is warmer than normal and the electrical switch is hot.
- On rare cases, all of the gauges go dark when in the ON position but if held between the on and start position they light up.
- On rare cases, if held between the on and start position the system check bulbs light up on the instrument panel.
- On severe cases, when the key turns to ON the usual clicks under the dash is not heard as well as the check system light but the horns work okay.
- In severe cases when the key turns to START nothing happens (no electrical) but the horns or brake lights work okay.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal (for your safety.)
- Remove fuse cover.
- Remove the steering column cover cover. (three screws under the steering wheel)
- Lower steering wheel if possible and if required.
- Make sure the ignition key is turn to “0”
- Disconnect the electrical switch harness from the fuse box.
- Remove the two screws from the side of the ignition switch cover with a wrench, monkey wrench or socket wrench. This is done by loosen the two small bolts/screws holding the electrical switch. Once they are loosen, you may then continue to loosen them with your fingers or tools. In my photos I used a screwdriver bit, having no other suitable tool available.
- Remove the old electrical switch, taking note where the harness routes.
- Simply insert your new ignition switch, screw it in, and reinsert the sockets!
If you open your damaged ignition switch you should see pitting one of the contacts located on the black component of the ignition switch; this should not be restored. It should be discarded.
With thanks to TechAuto, information used from here.
Initially I thought there was no central locking in the cad; I bought a kit and when I opened the car up, I found I only needed to swap over the ratty mechanisms already there and splice on the central locking module – which had been remove for some weird reason.
I replaced most of the screws holding the mechanisms to the frame as they had rusted a bit; thankfully it was an easy job to swap them over.
The biggest headache was working out which wires under the dash were for the Central Locking, then finding a place to wire in the Constant 12V.
While I should have taken a few more photos during the making of it, I forgot. Meh! 🙂
A sheet of aluminum.
Use the cardboard to draft cut and fit where the sheets will go.
Trace the cardboard cut-out onto your sheet of aluminum; allow some space on either sheet at the edge where they meet.
Fold the extra space a 90 degree angle.
Align the two sheets and drill holes for the screws & fender bolts
Test fit them.
This is my test fitment:
Spray the sheets.
My sheets painted:
Today I took ownership of a second Generation II CRX, an ED9 with a B16A. Previously owned by another member of CRXaustralia, this little pocket rocket is my first V-TEC CRX, having had two D-series’.
I intend leaving as it is, save a few minor modifications:
– Power Mirrors
– Central Locking
– Custom Air intake Cover
– Delete Antenna
– Front Registration Plate Relocation
– Tow Hook
– Aluminum Boot Floor
– New Visors
– Map Lights
Currently the car has the following:
– Cusco front brace
– 15×8 Simmons v4 White Mesh 3-piece Wheels
– Apexi Vac 2.
– VTEC bumped forward to 4500
– Koni Adjustable Struts in front.
– Generic aftermarket struts in rear.
– Lowered Kings Springs all round.
– Battery Relocation to Boot with Kill switch.
– Black Recaro SR4 Replica Seats.
– Momo steering wheel.
– Aftermarket gear knob.
– Brand spanking new Dizzy.
– Hurricane Headers
– Hurricane Axleback with twin tip
– Weather Visors
– Cold Air Intake
– Half-Bay Wire Tuck
– Sony CD deck with USB
– 16v rear deck wing
– J’s Racing Replica Lip
– OEM Rear Mud flaps
– Tints all ’round.
After over a year at the mechanics’, the little pocket rocket finally got its interior stripped out for the new carpet. A few minor tweaks for the audio cabling, and it’ll be ready.
The windscreen is already out, waiting for the delivery of its replacement. I noticed a few things that could get a tidy-up, including that damn climate-control faceplate – the close-second bane of CRX owners worldwide, behind the glove box.
I must remember to get that Master Bushing Set ordered in, too.